Interview with Gábor Soóky, Head Chef of Tati

Tati’s philosophy is simple yet bold: a return to nature, respect for local producers, vegetable-forward dishes, and a contemporary approach to classic Hungarian cuisine — without compromise. In this interview, Gábor Soóky, head chef at Tati, shares how these unique dishes are created, the technological and creative challenges they entail, and what inspires both the Hungarian-influenced and vegan tasting menus.

The Venison Loin and Koji — The Ultimate Challenge

“The greatest creative and technological challenge was our venison dish,” Gábor explains over the phone from a forest in Szigetszentmiklós, where he was out foraging for herbs when we spoke. One of the key components of the dish is a jus made with pine shio koji — a deeply forest-flavored, fermented sauce that gives the meat a unique character. Another cornerstone is the smoked carrot, which must consistently be presented in outstanding quality regardless of the size or shape of the vegetable. The carrot is glazed with a red lentil shoyu reduction, created by reboiling carrot juice — resulting in a deeply umami-rich coating that completes the dish.

Mushrooms, Medicinal Herbs, and Wild Plants — A Season-Driven Kitchen

“Each new menu is based on naturalness. Close cooperation with our producers is essential, as is placing vegetables at the center of the plate. Right now, seasonal mushrooms, medicinal herbs, and wild plants dominate,” the chef emphasizes.

A Hungarian Classic Reimagined: Cigánypecsenye

For many, cigánypecsenye (gypsy roast) is a nostalgic dish. At Tati, it’s reborn with a twist: we use Mangalica pork shoulder, which is slowly confited at low temperature until it becomes tender and buttery. The garlic is also confited and placed directly on the meat. As for the bacon, we use aged pork jowl, which drapes over the dish like a veil, melting into the meat by the time it reaches the table. The dish is served with a mustard seed jus and a refreshing pickled shallot.

Spring Freshness: Trout, Green Apple, Nettle

Pairing trout with green apple, celery, and nettle juice may sound unexpected at first, but the bright acidity complements the fish beautifully. “The fresh, green flavor of nettle plays a central role for us — it can appear in salads, sauces, or even as an amuse-bouche. Once heat-treated, it loses its sting but retains its distinctive flavor and beneficial properties,” adds Gábor. The chef forages the nettle himself, from remote, traffic-free forest areas.

Vegan Stewed Squash — Homestyle Comfort, Elevated

A key part of Tati’s mission is to reinterpret Hungarian classics in vegan form. One result is our characterful, dill-infused stewed squash, which debuted on last year’s spring-summer menu and returned by popular demand. “This dish evokes grandma’s cooking — built on plant-based foundations, without compromise.”

Vegetables in Dessert? Beetroot, Raspberry, Pumpkin Seed

At Tati, we don’t shy away from vegetables in our desserts either. One of our latest creations is based on the harmony of beetroot, raspberry, and pumpkin seeds. “The sweetness and earthy flavor of beetroot work surprisingly well in a dessert. The dish was dreamed up by our chef, Richárd Kovács — a fully plant-based dessert that provides the perfect ending to any menu.”